Surf
Surfing has helping me a lot. I never thought it would.
When I was little I practiced bodyboard and something happened that made me scared of it so I stopped going to classes and I got this fear of the ocean. A few months ago my colleagues decided to go to a surf lesson in Matosinhos and I went with them. I hated it. It just made me think that I was horrible at it, I couldn't catch a single wave and the ocean continued to scare me. So I lost the idea of it. Two months ago while talking to one of my old bodyboard teachers he challenged me to try one of the classes at his school. At the time I thought it was going to be a good experience to try just one class. But I never thought it was going to be different than in Matosinhos, I believed I was going to hate it as well. The only difference here was that I new the teacher. Or at least I new that he was going to be there.
So in November I went to the class. And it was completely different. Rui was not the teacher but he told the teacher that that was my first class and he watched the whole class from the beach. I had a teacher for me and for other student who was also going for the first time and I loved it. I caught waves all by myself, I learned a lot about surf and everything around it. Since then I've been going at least once a week and it's amazing! Rui says I'm evolving a lot and that in a few classes I can go to the second level. And this makes me so happy! I'm still scared of the sea! I told him that. He says that with time things will get better! I just need to trust him. And I do! Which is a new thing for me! And I trust all the teachers of the school.
Because of all of this and because the time that I'm in the water is "sacred" everytime I go to surf classes it's like I clean my mind. I feel so much better after it. Just going to the beach and talking to Rui. Talking with my colleagues. People that don't know me, don't know anything I'm going through. It's so good. They are getting to know the one I want to be. And it's good.
This weekend I was so down. I told Rui I wanted to go to the Sunday class and on Sunday I didn't want to go. I didn't want to leave my bed at all. But I went. And I had so much fun. And more important, it cleaned my head. A lot. I left the beach feeling so much lighter. Feeling so much better. I still felt sad. But I was also happy. It's hard to explain. But I really miss the classes during the week. And that's something completely new for me! When did I start to miss doing sports? I used to hate it and now I'm always checking to see if the calendar for the weekend classes is available! This weekend I even went back to see the afternoon class!
I really hope this continues to be this way because I do believe that it's great for me. Mainly psychologically.
When I was little I practiced bodyboard and something happened that made me scared of it so I stopped going to classes and I got this fear of the ocean. A few months ago my colleagues decided to go to a surf lesson in Matosinhos and I went with them. I hated it. It just made me think that I was horrible at it, I couldn't catch a single wave and the ocean continued to scare me. So I lost the idea of it. Two months ago while talking to one of my old bodyboard teachers he challenged me to try one of the classes at his school. At the time I thought it was going to be a good experience to try just one class. But I never thought it was going to be different than in Matosinhos, I believed I was going to hate it as well. The only difference here was that I new the teacher. Or at least I new that he was going to be there.
So in November I went to the class. And it was completely different. Rui was not the teacher but he told the teacher that that was my first class and he watched the whole class from the beach. I had a teacher for me and for other student who was also going for the first time and I loved it. I caught waves all by myself, I learned a lot about surf and everything around it. Since then I've been going at least once a week and it's amazing! Rui says I'm evolving a lot and that in a few classes I can go to the second level. And this makes me so happy! I'm still scared of the sea! I told him that. He says that with time things will get better! I just need to trust him. And I do! Which is a new thing for me! And I trust all the teachers of the school.
Because of all of this and because the time that I'm in the water is "sacred" everytime I go to surf classes it's like I clean my mind. I feel so much better after it. Just going to the beach and talking to Rui. Talking with my colleagues. People that don't know me, don't know anything I'm going through. It's so good. They are getting to know the one I want to be. And it's good.
This weekend I was so down. I told Rui I wanted to go to the Sunday class and on Sunday I didn't want to go. I didn't want to leave my bed at all. But I went. And I had so much fun. And more important, it cleaned my head. A lot. I left the beach feeling so much lighter. Feeling so much better. I still felt sad. But I was also happy. It's hard to explain. But I really miss the classes during the week. And that's something completely new for me! When did I start to miss doing sports? I used to hate it and now I'm always checking to see if the calendar for the weekend classes is available! This weekend I even went back to see the afternoon class!
I really hope this continues to be this way because I do believe that it's great for me. Mainly psychologically.
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